Hip-hop ties to fashion: Influence of Tyler, the Creator's brand 'Golf Wang' - RU Daily Targum |
- Hip-hop ties to fashion: Influence of Tyler, the Creator's brand 'Golf Wang' - RU Daily Targum
- The Pulse Of Fashion Turns Westward - Cowboys and Indians
- Identity and African attire: Duke students reflect on cultural fashion - Duke Chronicle
- From vodka gimlets to ski prep: this week’s fashion trends - The Guardian
- How TikTok Helped Create A Fashion Brand - pymnts.com
| Posted: 05 Dec 2019 09:00 PM PST  Hip-hop's current infiltration into the fashion world is one that is used to scandal, change and politics. Of course, Kanye's many years spent as the prodigal son lost in the wilderness has garnered more attention than almost any artist this year. There's the tumultuous and troublesome saga of VLONE head ASAP Bari's sexual assault arrest in May 2018, in which his accuser has dropped her suit, and he's picked up a defamation suit against her, according to XXL Magazine. Virgil Abloh's ascent to Louis Vuitton broke racial barriers and shattered glass ceilings, a watershed moment for hip-hop's presence in fashion. While each man has been in the news for distinctly different reasons, it's clear that the press often runs on creatives mired in controversy and criticism. Many a rapper has made their name from controversy, a tactic that's been exploited for all its worth in the age of social media. The biggest success born of controversy may be an artist whose contentious behavior gave way to flower-adorned runways and shops on Fairfax: Tyler, the Creator. Tyler's music has always connected to listeners, mainly because it's intensely introspective. He's spent time across his entire discography literally talking to himself about himself, whether it be through a therapist on "Bastard" or the fake friends tacked on the end of "2SEATER." Although Tyler's music is a key component, it's fascinating to see that for quite some time, Tyler's most blatant political statements have come from his clothing line, Golf Wang. There's the "GOLF Pride" T-shirt from his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, which co-opted Nazi and LGBTQ rights symbolism. Tyler explained the purpose behind the shirt and picture as seen in his lookbook on Tumblr. "What if a black guy wore this logo on a shirt? Would he be promoting self hate? Would he be taking the power out of a shape? What if a gay guy wore this on a shirt? Would he (be) promoting Homophobia? Then BAM! I had it ... This made the photo even more important to me, because it was me playing with the idea of taking the power out of something so stupid," he said. Time and time again, Tyler has raised eyebrows and opened up conversations on intensely political topics through his clothing. With the release of his Autumn 2018 collection, that uncompromising streak is still evident with a tee that bears the mugshot of George Stinney Jr. Stinney's story is one that's depressingly indicative of American life. A 14-year-old living in South Carolina in 1944, Stinney was at home when the police showed up on his doorstep. Stinney and his brother Johnny were arrested and whisked away, regardless of the fact that their parents weren't home. Turns out, the bodies of two white children were found in a ditch on the Black side of town with fatal wounds "inflicted by a blunt instrument with a round head, about the size of a hammer," according to the medical examiner. Stinney and his brother were arrested on suspicion of murder, but Johnny, age 17, was released. From there, a hallmark of Black American life took place: the complete failure of the criminal justice system. The arresting officer claimed that he'd gotten a confession out of Stinney, even though to this day no signed confession has ever materialized. Stinney's father was fired from his job at the local sawmill and his family was forced to relocate after being evicted from the housing provided by his employer. Stinney was kept in a jail 50 miles away to avoid lynching, and his family never saw him during the course of his 81-day confinement. The trial itself was a sham, taking place in one day with a jury that had been selected that very morning. Stinney's court-appointed defense did nothing to refute the police officers' claims in a courtroom that held 1,000 people but allowed no Black people. An all-white jury took 10 minutes to decide his fate, which was death by the electric chair. There is no transcript of the trial and there was no appeal filed. Stinney died on June 16, 1944, donning a mask that was too big for his teenage frame. When the first 2,400-volt electrical surge hit him, the mask slipped off. That's the history that Tyler wanted us to contend with when he plastered the only known image of Stinney on a T-shirt, sandwiched by the bold words "TEENAGE EXECUTION." It's a history of truth losing to lies, racism and a flawed police state. The words pop out in both colorways, either a bright soft pink cast against a muted green or a sky blue spread across sepia brown. The contrast ensures that you can't run away from the message, one solidified by Stinney's blank stare into the camera. Compared to all the garments that have landed Tyler on the hot seat, this may not stand out as jarring. That in itself is a testament to how politically and socially active GOLF has been in its short history. Tyler has made it clear that he'll make anything his canvas. Whether it be gay rights, civil rights, mental health or anything else, he isn't afraid to paint the picture he sees fit. Comments powered by Please note All comments are eligible for publication in The Daily Targum.  |
| The Pulse Of Fashion Turns Westward - Cowboys and Indians Posted: 05 Dec 2019 09:32 AM PST
Western style is elevated to unseen heights on the mainstream fashion runway and beyond.The symbol of the Wild West - cowboys and cowgirls - have quickly become the newest symbol of the mainstream fashion frontier. According to a summer study by Pinterest, Western-inspired clothes are on the rise with apparel featuring yokes, flares, fringe, and Southwestern prints. It's not uncommon to see these staple motifs moving beyond traditional Western fashionistas to the likes of Bradley Cooper and Gwen Stefani among others.
But in addition to broader audiences embracing traditional Western apparel, the inverse is also true with longtime Western brands expanding beyond their roots to offer on-trend pieces to a more diverse audience. A striking example of this departure is found in Wrangler, who recently launched a widely known partnership with rapper Lil Nas X. For those who don't recognize the name, Lil Nas X pioneered the record-breaking hit "Old Town Road" which was later remixed with Billy Ray Cyrus, and even recently won a CMA award. While this stirred up controversy in the Western space, we're seeing the lines continue to blur between country music and pop culture, which only fans the flame causing mainstream fashion to gravitate West. With insight from the boots-on-the-ground team at Wrangler, here are a few trends being picked up everywhere from Nashville to NYC. THE REVIVAL OF CLASSIC COWBOY FIT Cowboy cut denim has been pushed to the back burner, replaced with the relaxed fit boot cut jeans of the past two decades. However, we're seeing a renaissance of the classic, form-fitting style among men and women. The perfect pair of Cowboy Cut jeans are obviously Western, styled more for function than fashion - but that's what makes them cool. Paired with a been-there-done-that graphic tee, an effortless throwback look suddenly has a place among modern fashionistas from every walk of life.
FREE SPIRITED FLARES Stereotypically, hippies and cowboys never mixed - until now. The 70s-inspired flare jean is back in a big way, making appearances on Western ladies all over the scene. Styled up with a classic Western shirt, or laid back with a kimono, the flare is a fashion workhorse in your wardrobe. With a higher rise and flowing silhouette, this style is flattering on all body types and adds a huge dose of personality to any outfit.
CALL BACK TO AMERICANA ROOTS 2019 has repeatedly called back to the past for fashion inspiration, leading to the resurgence of vintage styling and the "worn" look. One may also conclude that the pull on vintage is also in demand for its simplicity. The fashion industry is going back to basics - Americana colors, simple cotton and quality denim. Faith in the idea of being an American original has been restored, and all want a piece of our heritage-inspired culture.
QUINTESSENTIAL WESTERN MOTIFS Everyone is looking to own a little piece of the West these days, and many are turning to Western brands to provide. The simplest designs such as rivets and yokes on collared shirts add the flair mainstream fashion loves, and makes the Western style accessible to all. For the bold: adding fringe, rhinestones or heavy embroidery is a knockout. For the subtle: pearl snap buttons or an engraved silver belt adds just the right touch.
WANT MORE WRANGLER?See the convergence of modern and Western fashion onsite at Wrangler NFR Cowboy Christmas, and follow @westdesperado, @ayadtx and @westerncouture leading up to the event to get their take on "What to Pack for Vegas." Be sure to join in the conversation using #WranglerNFR, and follow @wrangler to keep up with all things WNFR.  |
| Identity and African attire: Duke students reflect on cultural fashion - Duke Chronicle Posted: 05 Dec 2019 09:03 PM PST Every year, excited students arrive on Duke's campus carrying luggage, boxes and many other personal items. Some are seen clutching teddy bears from childhood. Others are being dropped off by emotional parents. Excitement, worry, anxiety and all the other complex emotions that come with migration are palpable. In this sea of people are a group of students for whom this is an experience not only laden with long layovers, hysterical goodbyes and family farewells, but spicy cooking ingredients, traditional ethnic clothing, flags and many other items of cultural significance to the African continent. Whether they're donning curly hair or thick afros or braids, the African student stands out for many reasons: There is usually an ethnic bracelet, ring or African print somewhere on their dress, notepad or handbag. Some are coming from different countries in Africa, and others are coming from homes in the United States saturated with hints of their African heritage. Students from Kenya, Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe, Bostwana and other African countries chose to attend universities across the United States for various reasons, be it seeking a study abroad or finding better universities for their desired goals. When they set foot on the schools' campuses, their determination to succeed and their hesitation in foreign cultures are evident in the many stories that later become topics of discussion at student associations formed by their predecessors. But one important discussion for many African students is how to remain rooted in their culture while being in a new and alienating place. Many carry different items that not only remind them of home but signify their identity as Africans — items they hold dear. As a graduate student from Nigeria, and also an "educational migrant" here at Duke for a study abroad, I brought many items with me: my ethnic group's silver bracelets and gold earrings, our traditional veils, African prints designed in many styles and my mother's prayers. I wanted not only to remember home but also to take my culture with me everywhere I went. As a naturally curious person, I wondered what other ''educational migrants'' brought with them — specifically, the clothes that represent or remind them of home. I began to photograph other African students at Duke and invited them to share their stories and their emotional attachment to their certain African heritage with me. I was interested in the intersection of cultural identities and fashion sense. What parts of your culture do you bring with you to a new country? How do you express yourself? What attire represents your respective culture or forms your cultural identity? Christine Ashimwe (Rwanda) Junior, Visual and Media Studies "I never thought of myself as wearing my traditional clothes. For as long as I've [remembered], we've always used the gukenyera instead of just wearing it, because it means more than just dress up. Gukenyera is an act that symbolizes and epitomizes the moment. It's done to honor celebrations, in remembrance of loved ones, as a testament of unions between families and as a matter of national pride."  Get The DirtSubscribe to our weekly email about what's trending at Duke  Seun Okimi (Nigeria) Fourth year, chemistry "Each of my ankara outfits has a story. Whether it's the fabric I watched being haggled in Lagos markets, the design I drew up carefully and was able to watch come to life or the extra touches from family members who gave them as gifts — each one has a story. I wear my ankara like a story, a reminder of these stories from a place so far that its stories can be too easily forgotten."    Celine Murugi (Kenya) Sophomore, computer science "There is so much weight in the fabric, colors, patterns and accompaniments of an African outfit. As I wear these garments, I wear small fragments of my culture, traditions and my birth place. They are perfectly blended together to represent that which I call home."   Natalie Ezem (Nigeria) Second year, sociology "For a child who was born away from home, the attire has always been a way for me to reconnect. A way for me to appreciate what my ancestors created. It has become a part of my identity and it's important to recognize."  Shami Chideya (Zimbabwe) Sophomore, mechanical engineering "My perception of wearing traditional attire has evolved with time. When surrounded in areas where most don't look like myself, I was self-conscious wearing something distinctly Zimbabwean. I always thought I was unnecessarily branding myself or making a political statement of sorts. After visiting Zimbabwe more recently, wearing clothes, accessories or even a headscarf are a gentle reminder of home. In that way, I wear traditional attire for a sense of familiarity no matter where I go."   Dorothy Oye Adu-Amankwah (Ghana) Senior, English "One of the heritages of an African is the attires that have been woven by centuries of history. When I express this heritage, I can choose to be queenly or casual or daringly bold. But other times, I simply allow the bright colors to speak for my quiet soul."  Moarabi Kakabalo (Botswana) Senior, electrical and computer engineering "African attire gives me a sense of identity. It connects me to my roots."   |
| From vodka gimlets to ski prep: this week’s fashion trends - The Guardian Posted: 05 Dec 2019 11:00 PM PST Going up 'Masstige' Beauty buzzword for products with a mass price point, but prestige branding. See Colourpop, Morphe and Glossier. Chunky chains Seen at Bottega Veneta, Marni and Missoma x Lucy Williams collection, which racked up a 1,000-strong waitlist.  Vodka gimlet Revealed by Phoebe Waller-Bridge to be the cocktail she held in that Emmys Insta post. Christmas carols If Kate Moss can get involved – see the outtakes from Coach's Wonder For All campaign – so can you. Alex Levy's sweater game Knitwear worn by Jennifer Aniston's Morning Show character makes a 3.30am call-time chic. Going down  Cheese boards Swap for chocolate boards, curated by Cocoa Runners, with a brass rail breaking edge for a clean snap. Goodbye, gorgonzola. "Great - I'll be there!" Stock phrases are reserved for robots. Send idiosyncratic email replies – "marvellous scenes!" – to prove you're human. The sneaker crease Anna Kendrick caused internet outrage when she dared to bend the toe of her trainers in an Instagram pic. Ski prep When did holidays get so tiring? Fine jewellery Cate Blanchett's Cindy Sherman cameo earrings are a game-changer. Why wouldn't you accessorise with mini sculptures?  |
| How TikTok Helped Create A Fashion Brand - pymnts.com Posted: 05 Dec 2019 08:31 AM PST If one were to make a list of products for a cutting-edge fashion brand aimed at capturing the emerging Generation Z market, it is safe to assume that "foxtail keychains" would not make the top 10. But that is exactly where husband-and-wife entrepreneurial team Shaudi Lynn (aka DJ Shoddy Lynn) and Bobby Farahi started when creating Dolls Kill in 2011. The brand has been well-known among Generation Z and millennial consumers for several years – particularly those into the clubbing and music festival scene. Dolls Kill specializes in edgy, unusual designs and offerings geared toward those with more eclectic tastes. Need a glow-in-the-dark fishnet unitard? Or a fully Hello Kitty-themed for 2020? Maybe a floor-length leather dress with a high leg slit to match your knee-high Doc Marten boots? These are the types of things one can expect to find on the Dolls Kill online shopping portal – as well as off the rack in their San Francisco and Los Angeles physical locations. Shaudi Lynn, as noted above, was a DJ who, in her own words, never had any aspirations of being a fashion designer or clothing merchant. But she was an eclectic dresser who had been selling her own outfits on eBay since she was a young teenager – so in some sense, she believes launching the brand was "always something in my DNA." And while the brand is often described as "punk," "goth" and "extremely eclectic," Lynn noted in an interview that she doesn't see it this way. From her point of view, the uniting vision behind all of Dolls Kill's assorted items isn't any particular visual aesthetic – in the decade or so of growth it has enjoyed, all kinds of looks have flowed from the brand. As Lynn told Fashionista, it is more about an attitude that permeates everything they sell. "You can dress like a hooker on the weekend, go to work during the week, who the *** cares? Live your life, wear what you want," she said. The amount of funding Dolls Kill brings in is something of a mystery: The firm does not disclose revenue figures, though its founders have affirmed the company is profitable. And they are looking to expand – fresh off a $40 million infusion of funds, care of a Series B round from Sequoia Capital. Alfred Lin, former COO, CFO and chairman of Zappos and a current partner at Sequoia Capital, led the round of funding and will join the Dolls Kill board. In many ways, as both Lynn and CEO Farahi noted, Dolls Kill was lucky in being the right brand at the right time – but they also made their own luck. Festival and club clothes comprised a rather niche market in 2011 when the brand first began advertising their products. Pushed by the emergence of Instagram, where their visually striking outfits played particularly well among consumers – as well as the widespread popularity of festivals like Coachella and Burning Man in the last decade – Dolls Kill began appearing more publicly and prominently. Their latest major boon, according to most experts, has been the emergence of TikTok and the associated phenomenon of "eGirls." For the unfamiliar, eGirls are an increasingly common way to refer to Gen-Z members known for their strikingly candid TikTok posts and their distinctive fashion stylings, which are generally a mishmash of skater, punk, goth and anime looks, often with a sprinkling of BDSM flair. eGirls are big Dolls Kill shoppers – though, according to the brand, that is more a matter of organic happenstance than anything they did to bring those shoppers on board. Where there is popularity, there are always imitators and follow-ons. Asos and Pretty Little Thing have added specific festival categories and shopping guides to their product lineups, and Forever21, Zara and H&M have also worked to "eclectify" their offerings in recent years to capture the emerging niche of Gen Z consumers and eGirl influencers. That competition is what pushed the brand to seek more funding, Farahi, as it looks to grow up and out with its fanbase. That means greater international expansion, since so many of their customers come from outside the U.S. And it also means finding and adding more brands and looks to stay on the cutting edge. But while they are gearing up to play in a more competitive space, both of Dolls Kill's founders remain confident. Because in their opinion, they are selling not just clothes, but a vision of how fashion should be. And, Lynn noted, no matter how much bigger they've gotten, they've stayed true to that vision. "We're an authentic brand," she said. "We are dedicated to who our fans are, who our girls are, who our guys are – so in that sense, it's the same. We're always speaking to the same group of individuals."   |
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